With approaching nightfall, the twinkling lights of the Golden Temple, reflecting off the water, beckon. Sitting by the sarovar (pond), feet dipped in the water, watching multitudes of people coming and going, listening to gurbani (devotional music) wafting across, makes for an intensely calming experience. After darshan most visitors head to the community dining hall for the langar, a free meal served to anyone who would like to eat at the temple. Gentle, polite, karsewaks or volunteers, serve food cooked in the community kitchen with love and devotion. Though the menu changes slightly every day, a dal (often maa di daal) and roti are common. This is a live experience of the world’s largest free kitchen. The meal could end with khada parshad, whole wheat halwa prepared in desi ghee, which is handed out to every visitor as a blessing.